Bright Pastels Of Portobello Road
The other weekend I went to meet one of the Glam Teens in the Portobello Road (now firmly ensconced at Uni and becoming more of a Londoner by the minute). To you non Brits but Movie lovers, you’d recognise this market from Notting Hill.
I spotted him, despite hoards of tourists and the rain, standing beside a guy flogging umbrellas for three quid a throw. Elbowing our way down Pembridge Road we turn left into the colourful street of early victorian houses whose pastel shades and pretty window boxes contrast strongly with the brashness and excitement of the market proper. Entering Portobello Road from the ‘top’ we’re instantly thrown into a world of antique stalls and labyrinthine shops.
Cup and Saucer Stall
Tiny rooms leading one from the other, every inch given over to whatever collection is the owners fancy or dealers trove. Vintage tea-cups and saucers,
Fruit Spoons
silver cutlery (loads of that – shame it taints the food so easily. I love the delicacy of it). Paintings, lamps, lace and lockets. Furs and fans, all for the bargaining.
Silver Trove
Tea Pot Antiques
On the way, not far from the enormous Antique Tea Pot, a sweet smell starts to stir the air. Despite the on-off drizzle, there’s a lure about the aroma, sticky vanilla, hints of lemon. The chocolate and pink frontage of The Hummingbird Bakery punctuates the procession of pastel painted shops. This is the kensington home of the cupcake. A tiny bakers, tucked between silver sellers, with a queue that shouts the popularity of the fabulous flavours to be had within, if only you can be patient enough. And for those who really can’t wait for their dainty single boxed morsel, there are chocolate cupcakes to be bought from a stall outside, nudged in close to the doorway. Even in the rain it’s worth the wait.
Outside The Humming Bird Cafe
Gradually antiques give way to fruit and veg, pubs and delis. A mix of stalls and stores – Mr Christians - a traditional grocers – wafts of coffee beans and crusted cheese greet us as the bell pings on the door. Little chicken and leek pies sit on a plate on the glass counter upright in their own pastry. Crimped and pierced to allow pie perfection at home.
Pie Perfection
Thick slices of Rocky Road and chocolate bathed Florentines share a dish in tempting piles. Sourdough, walnut bread and rustique, huddle on shelves by the door, shiny and seeded, a far cry from the supermarket slice.
Rocky Road and Florentines
As we wander up the road we’re besieged by tasty tit-bits, slices of pizza, more Fougasse than Italian pie. Warm on a cold drizzly day. The sun is breaking through and the tang of baked tomatoes and pungent cheese prompts an involuntary licking of lips all round. Large wooden buckets of olives, a myriad of choice from Greek marinated to Garlic stuffed.
More Fougasse Than Pizza
In the distance, steam is rising high above a gathered crowd. There’s a definite sense of theatre about this food stall. Three roaring burners are warming the people in the front of the horde. Two men, with arms fully extended, make slow sweeping movements across huge paella type pans of fragrant chicken curry. It’s not just the delicious smell but the theatre that attracts the crowds.
Theatre Of Cooking
Approaching ‘The Arches’, an area of the market under the A40 flyover (One of the main routes into London). We can hear and feel the beat of the music as it resounds off the arched walls. A constant thumping with the familiar melodies of Motown or early 70s Reggae. There’s been a secondhand CD and Vinyl stall here since I was a small child. My sister and I would steal out to listen to the music and the random conversations, comparing this album and that. Vinyl versus tape, 8 Track or now, CD. Enthusiasts rather than geeks. Open to suggestions or just flicking, as they enjoy the music and a cup of tea from the cafe cart over the road.
I wistfully leave behind a beautiful vibrantly embroidered South American skirt, with the thought, ‘Some can, some shouldn’t.’ We move on to the vintage clothing part of the market. Leather jackets soft with years of wear and sanded on seams and elbows. This is real vintage, paired with worn 70s jeans and a little floral top, second hand becomes super fashion.
Vintage Portobello
We’ve walked the whole length of the market taking in its different character. People-watching as we went. Tasting and smelling all the delicious offerings a fabulous day, full of nostalgia for me and great shopping for the New Londoner.
OMG OMG OMG! The Humming Bird Cafe!!! I love their recipes in their cookbook! I’m so jealous I would love to go to Portobello too
seems like a great day!!!
It was a great day and one to be repeated soon, I hope. GG
Every time we visit UK my sister and I always end up in Portobello Road on our adventure to Books for Cooks in Blenheim Crescent – I love it.
Books for cooks is fabulous. Such a treat to be able to spend time in. GG
Those cups and spoons are absolutely divine! I wish I could visit with an empty suitcase (or two!)
Two cases might be just enough!! I did buy one of the spoons for props, they are so lovely. GG
Ahhh – brings back fab memories of my time in London at Fashion College and again when I briefly had a stall on Portobello Market, (customising British military combat jackets and trousers to skirts with appliqued camo union jacks on the back) – LOVE the place – used to go for a drink at the Cow Pub there, and we’d scoot on a Vespa from Chelsea when it was sunny….happy days x
How fabulous! I went to fashion college in London too but, despite living so near, I wasn’t brave enough to take a stall here. What I like about Portobello is that it doesn’t disappoint even when you go back years later, it’s just as buzzy and if anything the area is more exciting. GG
Thank you for the wonderful trip and beautiful photos. I think I wouldn’t leave without at least two tea cups. I want to jump on a plane straight away!
I’m pleased you enjoyed the post. I always come back from the Portobello with a bag stuffed with goodies. GG
Great photos…thanks for taking us along for a stroll.
Thank you. I’m glad you enjoyed it. GG
I love London…it will forever remain one of my most favorite cities. I’m so jealous that you have access to all of this!! I can’t wait to visit again in June.
I’m taking notes..
I love being able to pop inti London whenever I want (the centre is only 40 minutes away) and to have the countryside around me at home. GG
What a perfect day out. And if you had a bottomless wallet there are so many things there you could take home with you. How good do those pies look! I have been to London but didn’t get to Notting Hill – a very good reason to book another flight!
Next time you have to visit Notting Hill it’s soo cool. GG
Love a good market. Great photos!
thank you. I love a market here or abroad. GG
I was ooh and ahhh-ing over those vintage silverware. I want
They are fabulous aren’t they. Perfect for props and decorating your kitchen. GG
I was there earlier in the week … I love it … You ‘ve captured the whole market beautifully !! .. You’ll have to keep an eye out for my next post .. it’s about a shop just around the corner form the Hummingbird Bakery xxx
Thank you Vanessa. I will keep and eye out. It’s one of my favourite parts of London and I love the fact that there’s always new discoveries to make. GG
Those photos with cups and cutlery are just pure prop heaven! If I were there without proper supervision, I’d probably go bankrupt immediately.
I just love it when I’m let out without supervision! GG
Oh I love that cup and saucer stall and the cutlery too! I wonder if they deliver internationally ?
it’s always so hard when you see great stuff in a blog from overseas isn’t it? GG